A few years ago we build a pergola in our backyard to create an outdoor space that we could use for gatherings. That’s when we realized just how expensive outdoor furniture can be. So I did what I always do when there’s something I know I can build instead of buy, I started scouring the internet for a plan I liked. It didn’t take long before I found an outdoor couch plan from Ana White. I decided to customize her plans to fit the style I wanted and the cushions I had.
That couch ended up working out so well that I some friends who wanted to build some too. I found some cushions for a steal at World Market and we customized the plans to fit those cushions as well. I ended up with one extra set of cushions that I’ve had sitting around for the last 4 years. Last week I finally decided it was time to make the second couch.
The video below will give you a quick overview of the build.
Supplies
15 2×3’s – This number may vary depending on the length and width of your cushions
2 1/2 inch self tapping screws
Kreg Jig- I use this one
Miter saw or circular saw
Random Orbital Sander
Stain – I used Special Walnut
Sealant – I use water-based polyurethane
Step 1 – Build the Seat Frame
The first step of this project is building the frame. This step is customized to fit your cushions. My cushion was 66″ x 34″ so I cute my length boards 66″ and my width boards 31″. I cut the short boards 31″ to account for the 1.5″ from the 2×3’s.
At each end of the short boards make two pocket holes using your Kreg Jig. You can use a basic handheld jig and clamp it to the board, but if you’re going to be doing furniture projects I definitely recommend getting the K5. It will save you so much time in the long run! And in order to not show any screws or holes I used a lot of pocket holes in this build.
When you attach your frame make sure to keep your corners square. Using self tapping screws will definitely help with this by giving you a nice, snug joint.
Next you’ll add supportive braces. Since my length was 66″ I put my two middle braces at 22″ and 44″. Add two pocket holes at each end of the braces and attach to your frame.
Step 2- Build the Arms
Next you’ll need to build the arms. For the arms I followed Ana White’s plans for the height of each board. Use pocket holes to attach the sides and the bottom board. I made sure to attach the bottom board so that the pocket holds would be covered by the seat side of the couch. Drill holes through the bottom board to secure it to the top board.
Step 3 – Attach the Arms to the Seat Base
After building the both arms you can attach them to the seat base. If you’re working alone you can use some boards to prop one end while you attach the arm to the other end. I cut a few spare boards 10″ to support the seat base and keep it level while I attached the arms.
Step 4 – Attach the Decking
To give the cushions some support you’ll need to add boards to the base. I cut 7 boards 66″ long. Space them out evenly and screw them to the boards underneath.
Step 5 – Add the Back Support
Cut another board the length of your seat. Mine was 66″. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the arms.
Step 6 – Sand and Stain
Who here loves sanding?? No one? Yeah, I didn’t think so. Sorry to say, but get ready to sand. And sand. And sand. I prefer to sand after most of the couch is built. I don’t want to be sanding extra wood that doesn’t make it into the final project. Who’s got time for that?? I made sure to sand really well and down to a fine grit wherever I knew it would be exposed and people would be touching the wood. Everywhere else I gave it a rough sand to to make sure there weren’t any places that would give slivers or tear at the fabric. If you’re going to plug your pocket holes with dowels, now would be the time. You can get pocket hole dowels like this. Add a little glue and put them in so they are flush. You may have some that don’t fit in totally flush and then you’ll need to sand them down flush. After sanding I stained with Minwax Special Walnut.
Step 7 – Adding the Angled Back and Arm Braces
This may be the trickiest part of the build. The easiest way to make sure everything fits really well is to go board by board instead of cutting everything at once. First I did the back supports. I found the center point of the back and then found each quarter point. You can see in the video below how I marked the boards based off of those points. After cutting them you’ll want to sand and stain them. It’s easier to do when they’re not attached so you don’t have to get into those tight angles. When attaching the angled braces I used pocket holes to go into the top and I screwed straight in from the back to secure the bottom.
On the arm braces I used pocket holes on the underside to screw into the arm. For he bottom I screwed into the bottom from underneath the arm boards.
Put your cushions on and you’re done! Now sit down and enjoy your work!!
I hope you enjoyed this build. If you build one I’d love to see it!
Hey everyone! I’m really excited to share this project with you, not only because this house frame floor bed is so cute, but also because this is the first build I have been able to do in about a year. For years I have had a herniated disc in my lower back and I would have to deal with it off and on. Typically it has gone away on its own after a couple of months. This time it definitely did not. I ended up having to have back surgery in June and after many miracles I have been able to get back to building. So this project was even more fulfilling for me.
*This post may contain affiliate links, which means that I may receive a small commission, at no cost to you, if you make a purchase using my link. I only recommend products that I use and love!
This summer we decided to graduate our daughter from a crib to a twin bed. This was due in part to the fact that she started climbing out of the crib, and in part because after the surgery I couldn’t lift her anymore. Instead of transitioning through the toddler bed we decided to go straight to a twin. I wish I had done that for all of my other kids too! But it meant we needed a floor bed. Fortunately there are some super cute ways to do a floor bed out there!
As usual, I spent a lot of time on Pinterest looking for plans so I didn’t have to create my own. Nothing ever fit quite right. So again I decided to build my own. It turned out to be slightly more complicated than I was expecting, mostly because I kept making stupid educational mistakes. But don’t worry, I’ve made them all so you don’t have to! And the beautiful thing about this house frame floor bed is that it cost less than $60 to make! Check out the video below for a quick follow-along, or keep scrolling for the step by step instructions for how I built this twin floor bed.
Supply List:
13 – 2×3 studs
6 – mending plates
2 1/2″ wood screws
Miter Saw
Orbital Sander and Sand Paper
Kreg Jig
Building the house-shaped end frames
First you want to build the side frames. Start by deciding how tall you want the bed frame to be. This won’t affect any other measurements, so feel free to decide what height will suit your room. If you have high ceilings you may want to make it 5′. That’s the height I started with and it ended up being too tall to feel right in our room with 8′ ceilings. I cut it down to 4′ 6″ and honestly I would even consider making it just a little shorter still.
After cutting to the height you want you will then cut the width. Twin beds are approximately 40″. Ours is technically 39, but I wanted some wiggle room. This is where I ran into my educational mistakes. I forgot to take into account the width of the side rails. So you’ll want to cut the short width boards 37″. With the boards cut I drilled two pocket holes into each end of the short boards. Then I screwed them into the vertical boards to form a box frame.
Next you’ll want to make the roof. This is where it got a little tricky for me. I wasn’t sure what I wanted the pitch to be. First I tried a 45 degree angle. While this would have been the easiest to cut it felt too short. In hindsight, with the total height of the bed frame and the size of the room, it would have been fine. I ended up going with 40 degree angles at the bottom corners of the roof and a 50 degree angle at the top.
I used the miter saw to cut the 50 degree angle and just free-handed it. While that method worked, if I was to do it again I would use my circular saw. Honestly, I’m not sure why I didn’t. I got in the groove cutting with the miter saw and didn’t even think about it. If you don’t have a circular saw, the miter will work just fine. You may just have to go back and shave off some of the angles to get it to fit nicely.
After I laid out the roof I used a 3/8″ bit to drill a short hole so that I could countersink the screw. This basically means that the screw head would be slightly under the surface of the wood. This way you can put some wood filler in the hole, sand it down and stain over it so it won’t be quite as noticeable that there is a screw there.
Another option would be to use your kreg jig to add pocket screws instead of countersinking a screw. For strength, I prefer that method, but in the end I was concerned that those corners already had two screws holding the box frame together and if I tried to add two more screws in the same spot I would run into issues. So I added one countersunk screw and then added a mending brace that I had spray painted black. And I ended up loving the look of the hardware so it was a win-win! When you add the mending braces make sure to add them to the front side of your frame. I initially added them to the back because that seemed like the logical place, only to realize later that I needed to add the cross-boards to each corner where the braces were.
With the roof on, the side frame was done! Now I just had to make another one. The second frame went quickly. When I had the boards cut for the first roof, I made sure to use those boards to mark where I needed to cut the second roof, so I would have to measure it all out again. That saved so much time.
Sanding and Staining
With the two frames done it was time to sand. And sand. And sand. I hate sanding. I hate it so much. But unfortunately it is so important! I used my random orbital sander and started with an 80 grit sandpaper and ended with a 320 grit. Some people like to sand the boards first before assembling their projects. While I do see the benefit of this, especially where the corners are concerned, I just mentally can’t bring myself to sand a bunch of long boards at a time. Find the way that works for you and go with it!
*Side note: when picking out your boards it’s important to make sure they’re not warped, but it is also important to make sure they’re not all chewed up on one side! I ended up with a couple boards that had a spot or two that I had to sand over and over to get it smooth enough that no one would get splinters. I’m not sure how I missed that.
After hours of sanding (ugh) it was finally time to stain! I used Minwax Special Walnut and I was so happy with the final look of the stain.
The Side Rails
With the two end frames built I cut the remaining five boards 75″, which will be the side rails of the twin bed and the boards that extend the roof. I sanded each board, drilled two pocket holes in each end and then stained it.
Assembly Time!
I took the the frames and the boards into the bedroom to assemble. You’ll want someone to help with assembly. I got my awesome son to help me with most of it. I screwed the bottom boards in first, followed by the upper side boards and finally the roof peak board. Done! Easy peasy. Mostly. Honestly, if it hadn’t been for the fact that I had to do homeschool in the morning and take care of small humans much of the afternoon I think this project is doable in a day. The sanding probably took the most time. Pick good boards that don’t require as much sanding! And if you end up painting rather than staining you also won’t need to be as thorough with the sanding.
I hope enjoyed this project! Please don’t hesitate to reach out with any questions or comments. And if you make this house frame floor bed I would love to hear how it turned out!
If you enjoyed this project don’t forget to check out these others!
I hope if you’re looking at this post it means you love puzzles! If you do you need this puzzle table in your life! There was a period of time when I had to stop doing large puzzles. When you have small kids or grandkids it can be so hard to finish a puzzle before tiny hands come wanting to “help”. I love my kids, but I can’t tell you how many times I was almost finished with a puzzle only to find a few pieces mysteriously missing or half chewed up. Gross.
I tried to find other solutions. At my mother-in-law’s house we used the board method. We put a large bulletin board on the kitchen table to work on a puzzle. Then we had to find another place to put it where said children couldn’t get to it while we ate dinner. What I really needed was a puzzle table!
I scoured the internet and pinterest for a DIY version of a puzzle table. I found a lot of expensive versions to buy and complicated versions to build. I knew I didn’t want drawers because kids still get the pieces. And hinges make it easy for exploring children to smash fingers. Then I found this beautiful DIY coffee table with hairpin legs. I was in love! But it still wouldn’t work for a puzzle table. But maybe there was a way I could turn it into a table top! The idea was born.
I went to work designing this coffee table and I have to say, I love the results! And the design inside is completely customizable. You could do angled boards or even a herringbone pattern! The top comes completely off, so you could even let the young ones do their own puzzle while the top is on the ground, and you can work on your puzzle in the base of the table!
*This post may contain affiliate links. This means if you purchase something from one of my links, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you.
Supplies
What you’ll need:
4 – 1×6 @ 8 ft long
2 – 1×3 @ 8 ft long
2 – 1×2 @ 8 ft long
1 Sheet 4’x8′ masonite board
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws (truthfully I used regular screws and it was fine)
Miter Saw
Brad nailer and 1/2 nails
Cut List
8 – 1×6 cut @ 32″
2 – 1×3 cut @ 32″ on a 45 degree angle (32″ is the inner edge)
2 – 1×3 cut @ 43 3/4″ on a 45 degree angle (43 3/4″ is the inner edge)
1 – 1×2 cut @ 43 1/2″
1 – 1×2 cut @ 30″
1 masonite board cut at 43 1/2″ x 31 1/2″
Instructions – Puzzle Table Top
Cut
First, cut your 1×6 boards into lengths of 32″. When you have all of them cut lay them out to make sure they all fit snugly. You may have to adjust the order to get the best fit if your boards didn’t start out perfectly square. *Tip. Make sure you pick the straightest boards you can find at your local home improvement store or lumbar yard. In my experience Lowe’s and Home Depot don’t always have the most reliably straight boards.
Make Pocket Holes
Once you have them in the order you may want to label the boards to get them in the right order after putting the pocket holes in. Then drill 4-5 pocket holes on each long edge and two on each end. I definitely recommend the Kreg Jig K5 to help drill the pocket holes. For years I had the very basic Kreg jig and it got the job done, but it took 3-4 times longer. For each hole you have to attach it to your board with a couple of clamps and even still I often got movement. The K5 makes it so quick and easy.
Screw the boards together
Next, put the boards back in order and screw them together. You should put a bead of glue between each joined edge. For some reason I didn’t do that this time. I was probably being lazy and trying to get this done between naptimes. *Tip. Make sure you drill the screw in enough to get the boards snug but don’t drill it in too far or you risk the screw poking through the back side. This is less of a risk if you use pocket hole screws rather than regular wood screws.
Once the top is screwed together it’s time to get sanding and fill any cracks with stainable wood filler. Don’t forget to sand underneath! I recommend starting with a mid grit sandpaper. Something like a 180 grit should be fine. Once your top is completed you can give it a final sanding with a 400 grit sandpaper.
Adding the Edging
Once you have the main top sanded it’s time to add the 1×3 edge. There are two ways you can do this. You can measure each edge and make that number the inside edge of your 45 degree angle or you can lay your top down on the ground, put your 1×3 right up to the edge and mark the board at each end of the table top. Use that mark as the start of your 45 degree angle. That’s the method I used.
I wish I had a better angle of screwing the edge on. Hopefully you get the idea. Lay the board upside down. (Make sure you have a smooth surface to lay the top on otherwise you’ll get dents in it) If you have large clamps you may want to clamp the board to the table top. If not then do your best to keep the board held tightly against the top.
When you have the edges all screwed on flip it over. Then you’ll fill any gaps with stainable wood filler, let it dry then sand it down. After it’s sanded down you can stain it with your favorite wood stain. I used a mix of Minwax Classic Gray and Special Walnut.
Making the Base
To make the base you want to start with the masonite board. I preferred the masonite over plywood because it has a smooth surface that makes pluzzling easy. If you bought your supplies at Home Depot or Lowe’s they will normally cut it for you if you ask. Or you can cut it yourself using a table saw or a circular saw.
Before you get too involved in making the base I would do a quick check just to make sure your board still fits in the table top. You don’t want to go to all the trouble of making the base only to find that for some reason your board doesn’t fit for some reason. Don’t ask me how I know that!
When you’re sure your base will fit cut 2 of your 1×2 boards at 43 1/2″ and 2 @ 30″. You’ll also want to stain your boards now if you want them stained. I stained mine, but since they will be covered by the edge of the table top it won’t be seen until you have the top off. Lay your boards out and clamp them to the masonite board. Flip the base over and use your brad nailers to put some nails through the board. If you don’t have a brad nailer you could hammer some finishing nails in or even put in some small screws. I’m all about using what you have already to make it work!
After you have them nailed on you’ll probably also want to put a couple nails in the end where the two 1x2s meet.
Your corners will also be secured together by the legs so it’s just an extra precaution. Get ready, you’re almost done!! Flip that puppy upside down. It’s time to put the legs on! Adjust the legs so that the holes line up with your 1x2s. You want your screws to go into the wood and not be exposed!
Once you’ve got the legs on it’s time to flip it over and admire your work!!
At this point I would recommend taking the extra time to protect your work by adding a couple coats of water-based polyurethane, at least to the top of the puzzle table. I like the matte finish. I actually didn’t do that in time before my kids colored all over it. At some point I’ll sand it back down, restain it and then put the polyurethane on. DON’T MAKE MY MISTAKES!!! Haha. Either way it will be a beautiful! If you make it I’d love to hear how it turned out! Thanks for stopping by!!
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Don’t you just love farmhouse style desks? For years we had 30″ tall black office desk that held our computer. It was so ugly. Something we just shoved in the corner. It wasn’t even that functional. We had enough space on it to have the computer, mouse and keyboard.
So bad, right? Cords everwhere. Wood boards screwed in to give us more space. It was a mess. And look at that awful stool!! I knew I wanted something in here that was functional AND beautiful. So on to pinterest I went! I found a beautiful farmhouse desk by Handmade Haven. Seriously, she has some amazing designs. Go check her out!! She also has a great tutorial for this desk if you’re looking to build it. The original plans didn’t have a place I could put a computer tower so I needed to make a few adjustments to the plans.
For the full tutorial, head on over to Handmade Haven. To make the adjustments to create a space for a tower follower her steps 1-5. In step 6 you add the side shelves. Instead of making the width 17″ I made it 12″. (Make sure to measure your tower’s height and width to make sure you get the right dimensions!) I also skipped adding one of the stretchers on the side because I wanted access to the side of the tower. For the base of the tower I had some left over masonite board that I used instead of plywood. I used Swiss Coffee for the paint and for the stain I used a mixture of Minwax Classic Gray and Special Walnut. Any mixture will give you different results. Just test your mixture on a scrap piece of wood and then go for it!
I hope you loved this farmhouse desk as much as I do! Let me know what you think!
For more ideas check out these posts!
This dresser makeover was one of my favorite and most frustrating DIY transformations. The whole project would have taken only a few hours if I hadn’t been so insistent that I end up with a trendy bleached wood look in the end. I didn’t get the look I originally wanted, but I’m happy to say that despite the many unnecessary hours I added in sanding during this I am so happy with how it turned out!
*This post may contain affiliate links. This means if you purchase something from one of my links, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you.
We had lived in our house for almost two years and my daughter still didn’t have a proper dresser. We were trying to keep her clothes neatly placed in decorative baskets in her closet. You can see it wasn’t working.
For all of you out there who have closets like this, know that I see you. Life is messy. Literally. And that’s okay. One of my goals is to make my messy life a little prettier. This DIY dresser makeover definitely helped with that! At least when the closet it closed.
Dresser Restoration
Step 1- Sanding
When my friend posted a wood dresser for free on Facebook I texted her as quickly as possible. The one thing I love more than restoring old furniture is restoring FREE old furniture. This one needed a little TLC but it had such a great structure.
First I removed the hardware and got to sanding. I started with 80 grit sandpaper and moved up to 320 grit. Because I was planning on staining rather than painting I wanted all of the hard coating and previous stain completely gone. For most of my general sanding I use a Dewalt Random Orbital Sander. For this project I also used a cheap mouse sander to get the edges and details really well. If you plan to do a lot of furniture restorations I would recommend purchasing a decent mouse sander.
Step 2 – Staining
I started staining with Minwax Early American. After staining the top and a couple of dressers I decided it was too orange. I sanded it down again and tried Minwax Special Walnut. Again, too orange so again I had to sand it down. At this point I had spent hours sanding this dang dresser. I tried the bleaching method (brushing on a water/bleach mixture and letting it sit for a certain amount of time). The raw wood was quite a bit lighter after, but as soon as I put some stain down it when back to orange.
Now, it wasn’t horrible, but it definitely wasn’t the look I wanted.
Step 3 – Painting
It was at this point when I decided it wasn’t worth any more extensive sanding. Off to Lowes I went to pick out some paint. Because I wanted to show as few imperfections as possible I decided on a Valspar interior semi-gloss paint tinted in the color “Secluded Garden.” Sounds romantic, eh??
The best part of painting was that I used my new paint sprayer!! Let me tell you, it was AMAZING. No more brush strokes and it was seriously SO fast. I 100% recommend using a sprayer over a brush for a project like this. I bought the HomeRight Super Finish Max sprayer. For around $100 you can’t beat it!
Step 4 – Sealing
I finished up the project by brushing on a couple coats of Varathane Water-based Polyurethane to seal the paint and protect my beautiful new dresser! I could have put it in the sprayer as well, but the one downside of the sprayer is that you lose some product to overspray and I needed to conserve the little polyurethane I had left. I definitely recommend the water-based polyurethane. It’s a bit pricey, but it dries hard and doesn’t have the oil-based smell.
I love how this dresser makeover turned out! I finished it off by lining the drawers with some peel and stick wallpaper. I put the original hardware back on, but I think I may pick up some cute gold bars or even some Winnie the Pooh drawer pull to go with the theme of the rest of the room! What do you think?!
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For years I have wanted a floor to ceiling fireplace. When we moved into our new house it had a large, empty wall. It was perfect for my dream fireplace DIY project! Except for one thing. The angled ceiling. I found a few fireplace builds that I loved, like this one. But I couldn’t find any that had angled ceilings. I was afraid it was going to be a little more complicated than I was ready for. Turns out it wasn’t nearly as bad as I thought it’d be!
*This post may contain affiliate links. This means if you purchase something from one of my links, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you.
Taping off the Fireplace
The first thing you want to do is prep and design your space for the fireplace. Everyone has a different room structure. You don’t want the fireplace to take up too much space on the wall, but you also don’t want it to look dinky either. We also used the dimensions of the electric fireplace insert we bought to determine the dimensions of the build. We purchased the PuraFlame 32 inch electric fireplace insert. I have been so happy with this fireplace. We have another electric fireplace downstairs that was part of our TV console, but is looked horribly fake and stopped blowing air within a year. I would definitely buy another puraflame. I mean, it’s not going to fool anyone that it is real, but it’s the most realistic electric fireplace I’ve seen.
So with the width of the fireplace insert being 32″ we decided on a total fireplace width of about 5 feet wide.
At this point you’ll also want to decide how deep you want the fireplace. The electric fireplace we used was about 8 inches deep. I decided to give it about 7 inches of extra space behind it to give it some room to breathe, so my total depth was 15 inches.
Set up your Base
You likely won’t have studs where you need them to screw your framing into the wall. Neither did we. So we screwed some 1×6 boards into the studs to use as anchors for the framing.
Framing the sides with an angled ceiling
To get the angle of the ceiling I held a 2×4 flush with the ceiling, perpendicular to the wall. I held another 2×4 against the first 2×4 and drew a line to mark the angle it formed. It was not at all mathematical, but it did the job! I cut two 2x4s at one end with that angle and framed up a box. I added braces in the middle and voila! Not at all as complicated as I expected. I screwed the two sides to the 1×6 boards on the wall and the sides of the fireplace was framed!
Framing the base of the electric fireplace insert
The next step was to build the base that the fireplace insert would sit on. I didn’t have a photo of just the base, but hopefully you can get the idea from the photo below. The base was just another framed box, similar to the sides. I measure the distance between the two side studs and fit the box to those measurements. You can see a second box in the back, secured to the primary base. I wanted it doubled up so there was a firm base for the insert. I debated for a long time, but eventually I chose to have the insert sit about 14 inches off the ground.
Framing the fireplace insert
To frame the fireplace insert I built the side and top studs to fit the insert snug around the insert.
Add Final Studs
Adding the final studs was a little tricky. First I had to match the pitch of the ceiling. I brought in a stud, held it up to the ceiling and marked the lines to get the width and angles all in one. Sorry it’s not more academic, but that was the easiest way I could do it. I built the frame on the ground. Because I had 4 studs hanging from one top plate, it made bringing it in the house and setting it up super awkward. But we made it work after a try or two (I have no idea how it happened but I ended up with one stud shorter than the rest and somehow I didn’t notice until we got it in the room. What can I say? Mom of small children who distract me).
Next we added some 2x6s we had laying around (you could use scrap 2x4s) between the center studs so that no matter what kind of tv mount we ended up purchasing we would have something to screw it into without having to worry about where the studs are. It just makes mounting the tv later so much easier!
Adding the Shiplap
It’s that exciting time when the fireplace starts to take on a finished look. Adding the shiplap! I started at the bottom on the front of the fireplace. Make sure your first board is level! You don’t want everything crooked all the way up! And keep making sure you’re level all the way up. It’s amazing how all of a sudden you can realize that you’re somehow not level anymore!
Add the trim
I based a lot of the bones of this build off of what I learned from Micheala Diane Designs. For some reason she recommended a wood board for the top trim. I thought there must have been a reason for it (and maybe there still is) so I added wood boards as the top trim. If I was to do it over again I would just use the same MDF trim I used for the rest of the fireplace. The last step before the mantel was fill the holes with putty, sand and paint!
Building the Mantel
The fireplace mantel was a pretty quick project. First I cut an 8 foot 1×6 board in half. Then I nailed them to a 1×8 board that I also cut to 4 feet. I added the end piece to form a box. This box would slid onto an anchor that was screwed to the studs behind the shiplap. To make the anchor I used what I already had. I’m a big fan of using up scrap pieces where I can! I cut a 2×4 stud to fit just inside the box. Then I screwed in three 2×6 scraps from the back of the stud. I decided how high I wanted the mantel to sit and screwed the anchor into the studs. After staining the mantel I was able to slide it right onto the anchor. At that point you would want to screw the mantel to the boards.
Step back and enjoy your work!
Once I got the mantel on it was so satisfying to stand back and appreciate what I had just done. If I’m totally honest this DIY project was in the top 3 of my all time favorite builds, right along there with the playhouse I built (which I will hopefully be able to post soon!) and the puzzle table I designed, which you can find here.
I hope you have been inspired to get out there and build something. I’d love to know what you think!
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